i owe you all a blog entry

Do not let me hear

Of the wisdom of old men, but rather of their folly,

Their fear of fear and frenzy, their fear of possession,

Of belonging to another, or to others, or to God.

T. S. Eliot No 2 of 4 Quartets (East Coker)


Oliotya!  (You are how?).

I am sitting coffee shop where I have to dodge drops of water splashing down from the ceiling.  The rain came down like crazy last night.  It choked my heart’s rhythm, it roared so loud– a wild thing.  I sat up straight in bed and told God, “You promised!”—referring to his words about never flooding the earth again.

Weather here is intense, almost vengeful sometimes.  Who knew there was such a sky as the one I see every day?  Wish I could write it down –its wideness, the towering cloud pillars, and the gold calligraphic flourishes.  It seems to me like a living companion in that it comes close and is always changing.  I will remember those clouds dipping down.  I will remember the red communion wafer sun.

I should mention to you that UGANDAN MAIL WORKS.  Rumor was that it didn’t; I’d heard that letters would take eons to arrive and that packages will arrive looted and rifled through.  Well,  the latter might still be true; I haven’t received any packages yet.  I have, however, received some real letters scrawled in familiar handwriting — and when I saw them sitting on my desk at work, I howled with joy.  If you experience the impulse to dash off a letter to me, I’d say, go for it.  You can send me an email requesting my address.

I continue to try to adjust to life in Uganda.  I find work especially enlivening and centering.  The Ugandan staff teach me so much about courage every day.  I think I mentioned on my blog that many of them have quietly done very brave things, simply because God asked them to.  One coworker smuggled hygiene products to the poor during Idi Amin’s reign, risking her life to do so.  For her, the way of obedience was clear.  If I ever suggested she was a hero, she would laugh.  She putters around the office, forgetting her shoes are off, she’s so focused on her work and her clients’ needs.  After many years in social work, she still cries sometimes at her clients’ suffering.  And she tells their stories in a deep, powerful voice: “When I first met C, she was so sick she could not walk.  She had to crawl along the forest floor to meet me.”

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My preoccupation this week is a problem analysis section for a “fatty” grant which, if we get it, will help IJM help lots of Internally Displaced Persons (IDPs) in the North.  Never did I expect to have to work on such a comprehensive research project, but I am glad for this broadening experience, glad for the challenge.  I spend a lot of time in a coffee shop with BOUTS, or Binders Of Unusual Tonnage, fiddling with words and terms like “ouput,” “food security,” “customary law,” “statutory,” etc etc.

Here’s some background to the grant.  Over the last twenty years, millions of people in the North of Uganda were herded into government internment camps during the conflict with the Lord’s Resistance Army.  Now these IDPs are returning home, only to find other people living on their land.  Traditionally, tribes would care for one another and partition land relatively fairly, providing for the vulnerable.  Now that people have grown up away from their clans, social cohesion has broken down and its every person for himself, with no one to protect the widows and orphans most often ousted from their property .  65 percent of all land is now disputed in the North.1 It’s very, very sad.  I hope IJM can help.  If all goes well, we’ll continue our casework in Mukono County (close to Kampala) and establish a pilot office up north, too, to help individuals who have nowhere to go, no way to eat and who are alienated from their clans as a result of the years spent in the camps.

For Ugandans, land is survival.  I think this concept is difficult to get across – to Americans, land grabbing doesn’t sound as bad as other injustices.  However, I see the pain and devastation this problem causes whenever I go to the field.  People who’ve been robbed of their land have no education, no food, and they can’t afford medical treatment, not to mention that they don’t belong anywhere.

The children still act as children do — kneeling down in the dust to share maize with me, shoving one another sometimes, laughing so that their tonsils show.  In some ways, they show surprising resilience.  In other ways, you can see their suffering and the waste in them not being able to attend school.

In addition to working on this grant, I’ve also been working on several writing projects, building relationships with media here, working on a small grant to secure wells for some of our clients, taking many, many pictures, writing press releases, and much more.  I’m always busy, and I get to do a lot of things I really enjoy. The Independent, a popular Ugandan weekly publication, included a short article about IJM this month based off a press release I wrote and distributed.

I think one of my favorite things about IJM is the stories — the hopeful stories– I get to communicate.   I see my job as telling the truth, as simply and directly and possible, and spreading hope — which sounds cheesy, perhaps, but seems real and important to me.  Oh hope, unseizable as music, elusive as days passing so quickly.   I couldn’t ask for more meaningful work to do.Your browser may not support display of this image.


in which laura picks up her prescriptions and makes a new friend

I went to the pharmacy the other day to pick up my oral typhoid vaccine, among other things.  Lord knows, I’m thankful for health care, but going to the pharmacy depresses me to no end.  It’s like the DMV.  Everyone slouches and looks bored, children are ill-kempt and screaming.  Looking around, I lose my general faith in humanity, and I just want to lay down in a ditch and die.*

(*Not really … I’m being hyperbolic … like Lucille Bluth.  “Why does he have to be so dramatic and flamboyant?  He makes me want to … set myself on fire!”)

Anyway,  the pharmacist greeted me with a booming,  “Hey there.”  Her voice was deep and happy.

I handed her my extensive list.

“Why you need all this stuff?” she asked.  She peered into my face with very steady brown eyes.  I suddenly felt jolted into the present.

“I’m going to Africa.”

She chortled.  “Now, why would you want to do that?”

“It’s like, well a sort of job.”

“Do you get paid?

“No…..”

She made a sort of pffffing, dismissive sound.

“I’m working for a human rights agency.”

“Ha!  You’re a Christian!  I knew it!”

She was nearly bellowing.  Some teenagers stopped smacking their gum to stare at me.

“Well, yeah,” I replied.  “Are you?”

She laughed and pointed to the enormous rhinestone cross swinging around her tattooed neck.    ”I knew it!” she said again.  “I knew it soon as you walked in.  It’s pouring off you, you know.”

“Ah.”  What is pouring off me? I wondered.  The love of God?  That’s ironic, because I feel a  little miffed at being forced into the center of attention here.  All I want is to get my meds, then get out of this terrible place. And now, people are staring, and suddenly, I have a lot of explaining to do.

Curious about our animated conversation, other pharmacists began flocking around.

They had many questions for me.  Oh, they had questions.  Why would I depart on such a strange jaunt?  they wanted to know.  Would I have to eat grasshoppers?  I explained that no, I wasn’t planning on eating grasshoppers.  Why would you do this? they asked.  And, I said, I am going because I think that God cares deeply when people cry out in hunger, pain and suffering.  God calls us to do the best we can to bring relief, rescue and hope.  We are His plan for justice.

There was a pause.

“Better you than me is all I can say,” my pharamacist replied. “I got my kids.  They are my calling.  We just have different callings, is all.”

“Yes, absolutely” I said.  “Well, thank you so much.”  I shook her hand and turned to leave.

“Un uh, no you don’t.  Don’t you leave without some sugar,” she said.

“Sugar?” I thought this was code for some medicine or prescription.  Turns out, it was a hug.  She came around the glass and squeezed me in a bone-cruncher.  I think I heard my body squeak protest.  “You be good now,” she said, releasing me.  “I will keep you in my prayers.  I will think of you.”

As I walked away, she muttered “So young.  So young.”  I looked back.  She was still standing there with her hands falling open to the sides.  My skin still tingled from her squeeze.

“Come back and visit,” she called after me.

As I drove away, I remembered a phrase I’d read in a Toni Morrison book once.  “Anaconda love.”  It seemed apt.

I wonder how many kids this woman has.  Does she have a husband or a boyfriend or partner to help her?  I wonder if she likes working at that pharmacy.  I wonder how she spends her time, what she does with all that thick, painful, powerful, fructifying love.


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